Author(s): Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw has compiled a definitive anthology of the best-ever writing about surfing, illustrated with classic and contemporary photographs and artwork. Hip and eclectic, the collection speaks to surfing's widespread appeal: from Mark Twain's nineteenth century description in Roughing It to Susan Orlean's essay on girl surfers in Maui (the inspiration for the cult film Blue Crush) and Tom Wolfe's The Pump House Gang. There are pieces from Lord Byron, Herman Melville, Captain Cook, an excerpt featuring the extraordinary vernacular of Gidget from Frederick Kohner, Jack London, James Houston, Cintra Wilson, Daniel Duane, Ken Nunn and James Houston. There are pieces on Australian surfers including the outlandishly talented and erratic Michael Peterson, the comeback king Occy and our world champion Layne Beachley. Their are also extracts from brochures for surfboards, novels and, of course, the surfing scene from Apocalypse Now. The art and photography come from Robert Crumb, Doonesbury, Charles Schulz, Art Brewer, and Tom Servais.